Yorkshire Scene - Autumn 2007

I've been a bit remiss in not updating this column for several months. I suppose I was waiting for something else big to happen but after an initial flurry and lots of national media hype about Steve McClure's Overshadow at Malham the momentum slipped somewhat. The gritstone prize goes to Nigel Poustie for his Ilkley Calf desperate, Pebbledash (is it a route or a boulder problem?) which scores big numbers in whichever grading system you like to work.

Apart from the above there has certainly been lots of interesting development for the masses but little to attract the headlines. On the Grit Nigel Poustie and Paul Clough concentrated their further efforts on boulders and micro routes at Guisecliffe and Sypeland, whilst Tony Marr's Cleveland team seemed to spend all summer at Brimham in an effort to climb every available inch of rock on this already popular crag. Incredibly Tony has added over 120 routes and variants here since the last guide was published. The crag will need a guidebook to itself before long.

In the western Pennines, Gordon Mason and David Boekstyns have undertaken a massive clean-up of the Black Wall area of Heptonstall adding four new routes up to E2 in the process. Many of the other established crags have received minor additions, perhaps the most noteworthy and most recent at Ilkley where Sean Jacobs climbed Optimus Prime (E5 6b) up the big undercut wall to the right of Walewska.

The Limestone sport's team have been more steadily prolific adding around two dozen routes between F4 and F7a to Foredale Quarry which is now a very popular fair weather venue. A new fully illustrated download has been put together by Paul Clarke and Nigel Baker to try to clear up some of the confusion for first time visitors.

Troller's Gill has received a complete make over with all the old staples and belays being replaced this Autumn and six new lines F5+ to F6c+ being added as a bonus. This is a quick drying crag which is often a reasonable bet in winter if its not too cold.

Glyn Edwards and Colin Binks added the first true sport routes to High and Low Stony Banks with 5 on the high crag (F6a to F7a) and two 6cs on the longer Low Bank. Worth checking out as the crags face west and get the afternoon sun and a little shelter depending on the wind direction.

Bob Larkin added 3 more lines to the right hand crag at Robin Proctor's Scar F6a/b as well as several more in the lower grades to the main crag of Giggleswick North. In total Gigg North had 17 new lines added in the late Spring mainly in the F6a to F6c range but with one significant new F7c from Neil MaCallum and Matt Troilett. This is a good, quick drying, winter venue now, well worth considering as a change from the more popular Gigg South.

The poor summer weather slowed developments at Blue Scar but Paul Clarke and Keith Morgan managed to link up a 5 pitch girdle of the right wall and Arch Buttress at E5/F7a+ despite a little frustrating seepage in the breaks on the crux pitch. Nick Dalzell got in on the action here also with a new link across the One Previous Owner Wall at F7a+.

One completely new venue was investigated by Nigel Baker and Paul Clarke and Panorama Crag (effectively the far left end of the Moughton Nab escarpment) now hosts 9 routes and a couple of projects in the making. The routes are relatively short but very steep on mainly positive, solid holds and weigh in so far between F6a and F7a The crag faces south and gets the sun but winter seepage may be a problem after prolonged rain.

All the above developments are now included in the recently updated new routes databases and complete pdf downloads are currently available for Foredale Quarry and Giggleswick South. If some keen gritstoner would like to prepare something similar for Brimham I'm sure it would be well received and very useful to the regulars and newcomers alike?

As well as the re-bolting that is now finished at Troller's Gill extensive Bolt Fund repair and replacement work is well underway at Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale with ad-hoc maintenance, as and when needed, at several other venues. Some of this work has been funded this year by the BMC Better Bolts Campaign but please remember that BMC equipment is not available for new routes. If you like the new routes on the sports crags and want to see development continue please have a look at the Bolt Fund page on this site. Those 30 metre pitches at Foredale are time consuming and pretty expensive construction projects. We are happy to put in the time but any help with the cost is always most welcome.

Dave Musgrove

 Yorkshire Scene - Spring 2007

It is Spring once more and time for most to start thinking about emerging from hibernation in the warmth and comfort of The Wall to experience the real thing again with ropes and runners, or big mats below scary highballs!

Of course some hardy souls keep ticking over outside whatever the weather and this winter has seen a steady stream of new routes and problems from the regulars, most of whom ought to be old enough now to know better.

We'll start with an unlikely venue for new easy routes, Kilnsey, where Paul Reinsch has established six routes from grade F3 to F5+ on the South Face of the broken buttress above and left of the Main Overhang. Paul's motivation was to develop an introductory buttress for outdoor beginner's courses which he has run in the Dales for many years but the results are available for any one and full details are now on the database. It is alleged that one of the grade 3s is worth 3 stars?.

A steady trickle of new lines has emerged throughout the winter at Giggleswick South culminating in the significant find and development of a completely new buttress up and right of Sector Swans. Swallow's Nest, as the area is now known, has 9 routes named following an Eiger theme but all are pleasant, on relatively good rock and graded between F5 and F6b. Bob Larkin was the initiator and driving force spending several days cleaning and preparing the lines in, what he thought was, secrecy. However, there are spies everywhere in Yorkshire and one or two other Yorkshire stalwarts got in on the final feeding frenzy when 6 routes were completed on the same freezing cold Friday in March. The best are probably The Flat Iron and White Spider both F6a+; and Alpiglen, a delightful F5+. The Exit Cracks, F6b are also superb - but just what is holding them up is another matter - you decide!

Bob Larkin had earlier added 4 easier lines to Bramble Buttress in the Wilderness Sector and Mick Johnson plugged a few more gaps further left into No Man's Land, and added another couple of lines to the left and right of Garden Walls.

On Giggleswick North Nigel Baker and I slotted in another couple of F6bs on the main edge but I fear this area needs several easier lines still before it starts to compete in the popularity stakes with its southern neighbour.

Trad Limestone saw about 25 new easy lines (mainly between S and VS) all soloed by Barry Clarke over few days in November. Most are on the Twistleton, Chapel-le-Dale escarpment with a few on Farm Buttress, a previously undeveloped craglet in between. Several more were slotted in at Attermire on and around the Apex Buttress. All are fully detailed in the database.

On the Grit John Hunt has discovered and cleaned up an isolated buttress below the path on Ilkley Moor between Swastika Stones and Windgate Nick. Piper's Crag currently hosts 11 routes/highballs from V0 to V4 (or VS to E2 6a) depending on your outlook, commitment, or size of mat. The highest, hardest and best, Champions Once Moor, is 7 metres high. A downloadable PDF with photos is available from our downloads page.

At Brimham, Tony Marr and friends continue unearthing new lines and variations, the best of the recent crop being a direct and gymnastic start to The Snuffer but on the outside to avoid the constricted graunch of the original. Paul Clough also added an interesting variant to Britt. Out in the 'wild' west Malcolm Townsley has claimed 3 short new lines on Scout Crag in the VS to E1 grade range.

A recent fire has destroyed much of the woodland that used to obscure Plantation Crag at Brimham. This has revealed several new boulders which have attracted attention of climbers but the open vista also means that the climbers have attracted the attention of the farmer who is not pleased about his visitors. Negotiations are in progress but in the short term keep a low profile and be prepared to back off. These rocks are on private land.

Finally, the Yorkshire Bolt Fund is getting extremely low on funds once again but we now have a new Paypal option linked to a YBF page on this site. You now have no excuse for forgetting to make a donation for all those Limestone updates you have been downloading all winter. The Giggleswick Gang in particular - You know who I mean!!

Dave Musgrove

Yorkshire Scene - Autumn 2006

No frost yet and the mild but damp weather lingers on, however summer style activity now seems to be at an end with Kilnsey, Blue Scar and Gordale starting their long winter seep. It seems like a good time to sum up the season's events.

Big new sport lines appeared at Kilnsey courtesy of Steve McClure, Gareth Parry and Arran Deakin on North Buttress, and Karin Magog extended Cold Steal by 5 metres and a full grade below the main overhang. Matt Troilett added a big new 7c to Gordale whilst Nigel Baker and friends gave the grotto a good clean up and added 3 new routes around the 7a range.

At Blue Scar a big new E7 trad line on Central Wall was the star attraction from Nic Sellars and Craig Smith whilst several new sport routes for lesser mortals appeared on the Arch and right-hand buttress. Valdez is Coming finally got a full clean up and a new bolt to replace the old in-situ 'bashee' making this probably the only trad line worth seeking out on this side of the crag. Nigel Baker made use of the new bolt to create a counter diagonal at 7a+ across this line and Paul Clarke and myself added a 3 pitch girdle at E2/F6b just using existing bolts all the way from Phase 2 to the top of Pillar Talk - excellent fun if a little run-out in places!

The Hollywood Bowl at Giggleswick gave Steve Dunning a good work-out when he claimed two independent extensions to Kleptomania and a completely new line to the left of Illywacker. All are 8b+ or above although a late claim from John Gaskins suggests Steve may have been pipped at the post on one of the three?

Several minor trad lines have been added at Great Close Scar by James Rowe and friends and Attermire has also had a bit of attention. Alex Smith slipped an E3 onto Barrel Buttress whilst Paul Craven has created a tough new shortie on the Apex Buttress where he has also been busy soloing many of the existing routes above a bouldering mat. Paul has produced a list of V grades for the crag (reproduced below) which some of you may find interesting.

I am also aware that Paul Reinsch and friends have been busily unearthing several 'easy' bolted pitches F4 to F5+ on the long neglected South Buttress of Kilnsey, up and left of the main overhang. However I am still awaiting full details.

On the grit 2 new traverses (E1 and E4) on the Guillotine buttress at Ilkley gave John Hunt some fun with the harder right-hand line providing significant air-time before completion. Tony Marr, Frank Walker and friends continued to add routes and variants all over Brimham but of more interest perhaps were two new routes at nearby, but much less fashionable, Guisecliffe. We have Bruce Woodley and Dave Brown respectively to thank for these.

Out at Earl Crag Phil Osborne has re-emerged to add a couple of fillers in to Tiger Wall and the Main buttress, plus a big boulder problem/cum micro-route near Grape Nut.

Just when you thought you'd never have to make the walk to Penyghent again after last years rock-fall Karl Bromelow has opened up some new buttresses well to the left of the main crag. The routes are shorter than the old lines but look to be on more solid rock. A couple at MVS and a cracking little E2 may just tempt you back (see photo).

So, as winter draws on its time to get out the bouldering mats again or head back to good old Gigg South - I'm told a team of old dogs from Lancashire have their beady eyes on yet more major new lines there - if and when they get their drill in working order!

Dave Musgrove 23.10.06

YORKSHIRE Summer Update 2006

The Frenetic activity of the early Spring at Giggleswick slowed somewhat after my Easter Update with just a steady drip of new routes here and there until a bit of a late rush on Trad Limestone in May at Langscar where Ken Suggett and Bob Larkin combed the available rock at the left end of the crag to produce an amazing 19 new lines in the Severe to HVS grade range. Earlier the same pair added a new VS each to Attermire and Feizor Nick.

On the bolts five new lines have been added to Foredale Quarry in a newly cleaned bay to the right of The Hidden Walls. All are between F5 and F6b+ and the work of Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan and Myself. Nigel and Keith then went prospecting back over the hill to Moughton Nab and filled the last remaining gap on the overhanging right hand buttress with Trophy Hunter, allegedly only F6b+?

An unusual but overdue addition to Troller's Gill is a semi-trad girdle traverse of the main crag in 5 pitches starting from Shaggy Dog Story and finishing up Brute Direct. Wires were, apparently, only needed on the last couple of pitches but Swanky Swallow is tentatively graded E4/5 6a/b with the crux being moving down from The Jim Grin and across to Barguest. Dan Fleming and Ben Thackray shared the leads but named the route in memory of their recently deceased friend James Swallow.

The traversing theme was continued on the Grit at Crookrise where Chris King and Stephen Reid found The Bracket Traverse (E1 5b) and at Heptonstall where Paul Taylor and Martin Roberts balanced their way across Tight-Rope Walk (HVS 5a) which links 35 metres of good airy moves all the way from Nutian Jamb to a finish out right on sloping ledges from A Dog with two Tails. Finally at Shipley Glen Chas Ward named and created The Aerial Glide (P2 5c) in memory of one of the Glen's old Victorian attractions. The climb starts above and right of John, crosses Kate's Horror to Grooved Arete then sidles across the wall of Stretch keeping just below the top to reach the descent path just left of Golden Oldie. No E grade was offered but P2 suggests this is more than a boulder problem.

A more conventional addition at 'Eppy' came from Neil McCallum when he climbed the bold tricky wall directly above the Rabbit Ledge. No Safety, No Surprise (E5 6b) has just one dodgy peg for protection. Neil went one grade better at nearby Mythem Steep Quarry when he climbed the big central arete, The Cat Test (E6 6b) with Matt Troilett. Whilst out to the west, and still in a quarry Jordan Buys has added a micro route/Highball boulder problem to the left end of Earl Crag; In Stitches (E4 6b or V7/8 depending on your style of approach or number of bouldering mats) is the rib
left of Sicca.

Ilkley Quarry provided Paul Bedford with a bold eliminate up the left side of Propeller Wall's Arete at E4 5c. Paul also squeezed in a new E1 at Brandrith.
Out in the wilds at Great Wolfrey Paul Clarke slipped in a couple of new E3 6a/bs one just left of Walter's Rib and the other to the right of Great Wolfrey Buttress. He also added a long overdue direct finish Wolfrey Crack at VS 5a

Other minor additions came at Brimham from Tony Marr and Mike Took, Slipstones from John Hunt and Wigstones from John Cutcliffe and Mick Darfield. I'm sure there are lots more in the pipeline so just watch this space.

On the Access front Peregrines have recently hatched at Malham, Blue Scar and Langcliffe so if fledging occurs as normal then access should be open at all three venues by mid July. The usual pair failed to breed this year at Yew Cogar so all restrictions there are already lifted.

On the Grit the only new access problem seems to be at Brunthwaite which saw a flourish of popularity after a topo was published on this site earlier in the year. Mick Johnson, the new BMC area gritstone rep is deep in negotiations.

Dave Musgrove 17th June 2006

STOP PRESS - Brunthwaite Crag

This crag is on private land (not subject to CRoW). The owner of the land has requested that people do not climb there. The BMC Area Access Officer is aware of the situation and is negotiating with the owner to try and restore access. For now we have removed the topo from our downloads section at the request of the author. Please check back for more news.

YORKSHIRE Easter 2006

When I posted my last update around Christmas time I suspected we would have a fairly quiet few months on the new route front. I was wrong!

Mick Johnson, Nigel Baker and Keith Morgan in particular carried on where they left off in the Autumn and continued the development of Giggleswick South at a frenetic pace. 25 new routes have been added to the crag since the beginning of January and Mick still has a few potential lines up his sleeve. That makes a grand total of 54 additions since the guide was published less than a year ago - and I thought the crag was worked out then. A certain local climbing shop owner, on driving past and seeing Mick's car below the crag for the 3rd day running one week in February remarked that he "couldn't believe there was any rock left to develop on the edge". His companion, a lake district wag replied dryly "maybe he brings his own!" Nevertheless, the new routes are proving popular as testified by a growing number of regulars appearing there each weekend and snapping up quick repeats.

With the exception of one new HVS on the upper tier from Karl Lunt all the new lines are between F4 and F7a with still the majority in the sporting 6 range. Worth seeking out from Sector Golf through to the Wilderness Walls are; from right to left, Out of Bounds (F4), Lost Balls (F6a+), Mettle Would (F6b+), Comic Strip (F6c), The Constant Gardener (F6a), Mighty Mouse (F6c+), Feline Fun (F6b), Sgt Bilko (F6a), Norman Wisdom (F6a) and Puckoon (F5). Much further left, on a newly developed but rather isolated buttress best approached from Buckhaw Brow are 5 excellent lines from F6a to F6c+. This is Stone Cold Buttress and the central line, Bella Calcio (F6b) together with the right hand line Stone Cold Crazy (F6c) are superb. Given just a bit more length several of the lines here would be worth 3 stars.

Another feature of the recent developments, and perhaps a hint that most areas are close to being worked out has been the addition of several diagonal traverse lines which in reality contain little if any new climbing but provide added length and extra interest for those who have done everything else. Good examples are The Big Slice (F6b) on sector Golf; Swinging the Cat (F6b and 30 metres long) across Sector Bonhomie from the foot of Richard of York to the lower-off of Remember, Remember; Joker's Wild (F6c) moving up and left from Little Britain on the Wilderness Walls and Deus Ex Machina (F6b+) on Stone Cold Buttress.

On the grit, most of the action has, unsurprisingly, involved bouldering, and updates on new problems and significant repeats can be found on www.yorkshiregrit.com . However James Ibbertson has provided some new lines which scrape in as routes. Arry's Left Ook (E4 6b/c) at Almscliff is significant as is his direct finish to Magnum Opus at E6 6c (or maybe V8 if you are very brave and/or have enough mats. Also on the Virgin James claimed a direct finish to Jack on Fire at E4/5 6c (Though I've just heard that Ben Bransby climbed this in 1999).

Elsewhere on the grit a couple of short routes (E1/2) at Halton Heights fell to Dave Brown and at Lord's Seat Malcolm Townsley claimed a new E1 on 'Larkins' buttress. Neil McCallum climbed the bold arete above the Rabbit Ledge at Heptonstall as No safety or Surprise (E5 6b) with one peg runner. The most bizarre claim for a new route, however, comes from Sarah Clough and Matt Jones who report a 10 metre through 'caving trip' beneath the large slab adjacent to the Cubic Block at Brimham. Go check it out!

Bird restrictions for the Spring are now in place at Blue Scar and Langcliffe covering the whole crag at both locations. At Malham it looks like the restriction will be back on the Terrace Wall and Carnage areas again this year but permanent wardens on site will be able to advise on a day to day basis. At Yew Cogar the restriction only covers the extreme right hand side but climbers are asked to approach from the left rather than directly down the hillside opposite. All restrictions should be lifted around mid July except for the left side of Langcliffe. A compromise agreement will now give access to the Central Wall and right hand buttresses from 15th July to 31st of December. On the grit the only known restricted site for nesting birds is still the little frequented Derby Delph.

Dave Musgrove 29.3.06

YORKSHIRE Christmas Update - 2005

Since my last update in September the main pioneers of new routes in Yorkshire have continued their dedicated quest to create a steady flow of new classics for your delight. Some have aimed at quality in the higher grades, some for quantity in the lower grades and some would argue they have succeeded on both counts! You will eventually be the judges.

In the big numbers Ian Vickers and Gaz Parry both added an F8b+ to Yew Cogar Scar and Kilnsey Crag respectively and Steve Dunning succeeded on the oft tried (by others) right hand finish to Big Greeny at Almscliff. The Ginger Meany weighs in at E7 6c/7a.

Tony Marr and friends have continued to pillage the untapped potential of Brimham Rocks adding over 20 new routes and variations this summer. One such, Clingon, led by Alan Taylor, on Cleft Buttress is either a quality E2 6b if you go to the top or an excellent V4 boulder problem if you traverse off after the crux. There are now well over 120 new routes at Brimham since the last guide!

Elsewhere on the grit there is little of great significance but Dave Brown and Lawrence King added four unpronounceable lines at the right hand end of Eastby, Malcolm Townsley slotted another eliminate in to Birk Gill and Ben Barnard added a couple of variants to Great Wolfrey. Perhaps the best of the rest is at Crookrise where Alistair Mitchell and Tim Pollard linked some variants on the Ruffian Boulder to create Fagin at E4 6b.

Back on the Limestone a final offering was added to the mighty north wall of Foredale Quarry in October. Ace of Spades (F6a+) is possibly the best 30 metre low grade sport pitch in the county but you will probably now have to wait until April to enjoy it with warm fingers and dry rock. The same goes for Blue Scar where a couple of late additions from Paul Clarke are possibly amongst the hardest sport routes on the right-hand, Arched Buttress.

On the trad front Karl Lunt, Ali Sharman and Friends have added several routes to the far left end of Ravenscar, whilst Barrie Clarke opened his Yorkshire account with a series of sub-HVS new additions at Beggar's Stile and Back Tow Scar. Though I've had nothing new reported I'm told that Chapel Le Dale is now fulfilling its potential as a very popular winter sunshine venue for the trad brigade.

For Sport fans, as the autumn damp set in at many of the bigger crags Mick Johnson and friends were undeterred and simply transferred their attentions to good old reliable Giggleswick South. Mick had already probed the Wilderness Wall area in the Summer but as the autumn leaves fell more potential was revealed and there are now some 25 new routes (F5 to F7a) since the publication of the new guide. The majority of the best are between Sector Bonhomie and City Limits. Generally shorter than the other sport routes, they are invariably on good solid rock which dries amazingly quickly. If it stops raining as you get out of your car I can guarantee you'll find most of these routes dry by the time you walk up. Co conspirators in the development were Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan, John Hunt and myself. An up-to-date topo is now available on this web-site so there is no excuse for not getting a few quick ticks in on a winter weekend's afternoon in the near future.

Still no positive news from Langcliffe yet. It looks probable that access will be allowed on the Central Wall area from next summer but even that is by no means certain just yet.

Dave Musgrove
December 2005

Yorkshire - Post Guide Update

The new Limestone guide is out at last and already out of date. New routes have already been added to all the major crags and in fact the rush to develop the overhanging buttress at the right hand end of Moughton Nab has necessitated a new topo to avoid further confusion amongst the dozen or so new sport routes here.

The first critical mistakes have also already been pointed out to me in that the diagram to the most popular part of Crummackdale is misleading in that routes 36 to 42 (Generation Gap to Little pink Clare) should all start slightly further right than indicated on the sketch and the routes right again should be squeezed closer together. I accept responsibility for this - having done the first ascent of two of these routes I should have known better. The descriptions are correct but a topo with revised lines will be prepared to download from this site. A new route here, Blues E4 6a from Paul Wheeler is essentially a direct start to Brothers.

At Trow Gill Joss has been given a direct finish (Joss Stone at F6a) and a new companion to the right (Bop till you Drop at F6b+) both squeezed in by Mick Johnson and friends. Nigel Baker and Keith Morgan decided 'It's a Thugs Life' (F7a+) after climbing the bulges and groove to the left of Tower of Baubles. Paul Clarke also completed a long time project up the short but problematic wall above Brush with a Goat.

Mick Johnson has also been busy on the wilderness walls of Giggleswick South where Glyn Edwards and Colin Binks have also recorded 4 new routes in the F6a+ to 6b+ categories. Mick and Keith Morgan have unearthed another 5 lines and all are now described in the database to give you Gigg South devotees something new to keep you occupied this winter.

Foredale Quarry has two new long F6b routes on the main wall from Glyn Edwards and Nigel Baker respectively, both worthwhile, and Keith Morgan and I added a new F7a to the Hidden walls area and a F6c+ to the amphitheatre right of the main wall. The popularity of this venue has led to conflict with some local residents over parking and the farmer about dogs. New arrangements have been agreed involving parking at the foot of the hill before the farm. Notices should be on site to indicate the new approach. Please leave Fido at home to avoid further conflict as you have to cross the farmers land to reach the quarry.

Access problems have also arisen at Beggar's Stile where the info given in the guide is not now true regarding the crag being on Access Land. The farmer apparently won a late appeal and therefore still requires you to ask his permission before climbing. This is at the last farm in the valley below the crag.

On the big cliffs Gaz Parry has completed an old project at Malham Idefix F8b which is a continuation of Free n Even Easier, whilst at Kilnsey Derek Hargreaves finally climbed the very obvious direct line up the upper groove of Diedre at E4 6b.

Paul Clarke, Nigel Baker and Keith Morgan are responsible for all the new lines at Moughton all of which are relatively short but very steep. Great if you like that sort of thing! Not sure that I do?

At Blue Scar Eight new lines or variants have been added since the end of the bird ban in July. The best of these being The Arch of Damocles (F7a), Fighting Chance, (F7a), the atmospheric corner and rib of The Gingerbread House (F6b+) and the even more spectacular Once Bitten/Twice Shy combination (F6c+/7a). Better still, but probably not destined to be quite as popular Across the Wide Blue Yonder (F6c,F7a+), is a big two pitch high-level traverse above the prominent arches of the right hand buttress. Various combinations of Baker, Morgan, Clarke and myself have been involved in these developments as well as the completion of re-equipping all the old existing sport routes here.

Troller's Gill has also seen significant action on both sides of the upper gorge where the walls are shorter but steeper than on the established main cliff. Eight new lines here cover the grade range F5 to F7a+.

On the grit development has been less frenetic but Karl Bromelow and Mandy Robertson have added 3 worthwhile lines to the summit blocks of Embsay Crag between Eastby and Deer Gallows and in the same vicinity Neil Sugden has added a serious little E5 arete pitch to Halton Heights. At Earl Crag Paul Wheeler and friends found a worthwhile E2 up the left edge of Mousehole Slab.

Malcom Townsley was quick off the mark on the first day of Open Access thanks to the CRoW Act in May. A trip to Ash Head, previously dogged by restrictions and officious gamekeepers, produced Right to Roam (VS 5a) just to the left of Up and Under, and Ledge and Scoop (S) up a left trending scoop just right of A Climb. Jamie Moss also paid a visit here a few weeks later and added The American Girl (VS 4b) midway between The Actress and the left edge of the block; and 21st Birthday Wall (VS 4c) between Rhythm and Easy Ridge.

A similar trip to Wigstones on Appletreewick Moor by Mick Darfield and Martin Holland claimed 10 new routes all in the sub-VS category however this is a useful and pleasant new addition to gritstone esoterica in the county.

Harder fare on more accessible grit came from, Ian Farnworth, Paul Wheeler and Darren Holgate who combined forces to create Fork n Sheet (be careful how you pronounce it) (E2 5c) a left-hand variant up the rib on the upper section of Bull's Crack at Heptonstall Quarry.

Dave Musgrove
September 2005

To see previous editions of routes news click here

All of the route diagrams are now available via our downloads page.

Blue Scar Update

A high quality pdf version of this diagram is available from the downloads page.

Moughton Update

A high quality pdf version of this diagram is available from the downloads page.

Yorkshire News
Spring Round-up - 2005

It seems a while since I last updated this column so what's been happening in the real world since last October?

A small team of us have been frantically putting the finishing touches to the new definitive Limestone guide and that is now at the printers and due to hit the shops at the end of May. I therefore know quite a lot about what has been happening on the white stuff but have neglected the gritstone scene somewhat. However, despite having few details of new gritstone routes there should be an interesting summer ahead when several areas of Moorland become Access Land under the CRoW Act on the 28th of May. Great Wolfrey, Wigstones, Sypeland, Ash Head, Hullah Stones, Brandrith, Cat Crags and several smaller outliers should all then be accessible without the hassles that many have experienced in the past. There could still be some temporary closures or restrictions under the Act for nature conservation etc, but any such restrictions should be published well in advance.

There has been some new routing at Crookrise and Hugencroft through the winter, mainly due to David Sutcliffe and Friends, and Malcolm Townsley has added one new route at Birk Gill and a couple of micro routes at Rylstone. Ben Barnard squeezed one in at Eastby and John Hunt did the same at Panorama Crag.

At Brimham Tony Marr, Mike Tooke and Peter Shawcross gave Cracked Buttress a makeover adding two diagonal traverses and a couple of other variations whilst Tony Barley and I went grovelling in the woods below Bovine Buttress and found a couple of micro gems. Karl Bromelow and Mandy Robertson went prospecting on the scattered boulders that make up Embsay Crag, the prominent but, on closer acquaintance, rather disappointing bastion to the right of Deer Gallows. Nevertheless they came away with the first ever recorded route there, Permanent Resident (VS).

Dave Sutcliffe has also been active cleaning and collating several new (and I suspect several old) problems at Rocky Valley, Ilkley. Full details of these problems are recorded on www.yorkshiregrit.com but a few photos are published here to whet your appetite.

John Hunt has given a similar bouldering makeover to Brunthwaite Crag, near Silsden and a downloadable topo is available on our downloads page.

Back on the Limestone the frenetic rush to make guidebook deadlines has seen several teams active throughout the winter. The autumn campaign to revive the climbing credentials of Langcliffe gathered pace and 10 new sport routes F6a+ to F6c+ were added before access difficulties were encountered involving health and safety, industrial heritage status, and not least, nesting birds caused a cessation which I hope will be only temporary. Further meetings with all interested parties are planned - watch this space!

The activists then switched their attention to Foredale Quarry near Helwith Bridge. Access difficulties seem less likely here and none have been encountered so far. The best and biggest walls are north-east facing so not great in the winter but several shorter, but no less interesting, routes have now been established on the lower but sunnier west facing walls. Twenty four climbs from F6a -F7a are described in the new guide and by the time it is published conditions should be perfect. There may also be several more routes by then to cause you some confusion? Paul Clarke, Nigel Baker, Mick Johnson, John Hunt, Keith Morgan, Bob Larkin and Gill Peel have all been active here following the initial lead set by Glyn Edwards and Colin Binks last summer. It will be interesting to see if the popularity of the place matches that of quarry sport in Derbyshire.

Just over the hill from Foredale the right hand end of Moughton Nab is also experiencing a mini revival. Three new F7a's a F7b and a couple of sporting sixes courtesy of Nigel Baker, Paul Clarke and, new hand on the drill, Richard Hardicre have been added here and there may be scope for one or two more.

At Giggleswick South Mick Johnson and Keith Morgan were the first to put the new guide out of date when they added a new F6b to Sector Golf and Paul Clarke finally completed a long standing project The White Knuckle Ride (F7b+) straight up the big wall between Pimp with a Limp and Bandwagon at Trow Gill.

Elsewhere on trad limestone Karl Lunt and friends have added four routes to Giggleswick South High level crag. (Severe to E1) and a couple to Twistleton.
Bob Larkin and his gang have also put the new guide out of date at Pot Scar with four routes but I've managed to squeeze them in at the end of the chapter.

From the publication date of the new guide all the Limestone database and old limestone topos will be removed from this site. I hope you've found them useful and will now be encouraged to buy the guidebook. I will continue to add new route details to a new database with route numbers referenced to the new book. I am already working on brand new downloadable topos to Moughton Nab and Foredale to keep you right up to date.

So that's about how it stands on the crag. BMC area meetings also seem a bit more vibrant now since the move to a pub venue in Cononley near Skipton. Mark Radtke's chairmanship has given a new perspective and new Access officers Helen Taylor and Martin Christmas have got stuck in to their duties with a gusto. Let's give them all our support. The next meeting is on the 13th June and there could be free food!

Dave Musgrove, May 2005

Yorkshire New Routes Update - Autumn 2004

Since the last update in June there has been much going on on the Limestone front with plenty of new routes and re-equiping work particularly on the Wharfedale crags of Blue, Dib, Yew Cogar Scar and Kilnsey. Foredale Quarry has at last started to show its potential as a sport climbing venue and even Langcliffe Quarry now has a couple of new routes, the first there for over 30 years. There has also been lively debate and some controversy regarding retro-bolting; but more of that later.

As the gritstone bouldering season approaches I have a couple of new venues to reveal and news of the long awaited re-opening of Hugencroft near Bridestones. However, it has been generally a very quiet summer on the grit with few significant new 'proper' routes being reported.

The first new bouldering venue is on the relatively remote and windswept summit of Great Whernside where Martin Swithenbank and Clare Danek have initiated a bouldering circuit comprising about 20 Problems. Mainly in the lower grades at the moment but with potential for harder stuff as well. New topo download.

Paul Clarke and John Hunt have given Earl Seat (near Simon's Seat) a recent re-appraisal and recorded several problems up to V3 on a short edge just above the main crag containing the routes shown in the current guide. Paul also reclaimed several micro routes on the main edge and an updated topo and list of descriptions is now included.

Hugencroft, which re-opened thanks to the CroW Act in September has seen much activity from several parties but recording seems somewhat haphazard at the moment. David Sutcliffe has sent me details and photos of two substantial new routes and some bouldering info appears on www.yorkshiregrit.com but the crag could do with a full write up from someone to form a basis for future records and the avoidance of multiple claims.

Up on Sharphaw, James Ibbertson and Jordan Buys have added Lone Dyno, a highball V8 variant to Aye 'n 'ard Crack finishing out to the right and added an excellent V7, Leaning Block Arete to a boulder close to the Tarn (see photos)and James has made recent ground up repeats of Dino Mania on Simon's Seat and Pistol Whip at Almscliff confirming the quality of both but thinking the latter hard 6c rather than the 7a first reported. The same team have also started exploring Hen Stones, the scattered boulders to the south of Lords Seat with Hen Arete (V7) being their best offering there to date.

So back to the Limestone, 10 new routes at Dib Scar are from the left, Calendar Girls E5 6b (F7b) a right hand variant to Cauliflower with a bolt protected crux; Sassenach (F7a+) a rising traverse to the left of Central Wall; Dropalog (F7a+) between I Travel and Travelogue; Dibatable (F7c+) the old aid route Lockiflower freed at last. Mental Bloc (F6c), a direct finish to This Fear of Blocks; Rock around the Bloc (F7b), a variation start to the left of Cave Crack; Left to Roam (F6b+) and Right to Roam (F7a), are two variants seeking independence on the wall between Slimline and Back Burner; Britvic 55 (F6c), a right-hand finish to Revived 45; and 'Ave a Lunch (F5+) the wall right of Avalanche. The main activists here were Matt Troilett, Neil Herbert, Derek Hargreaves, Keith Macgregor, Paul Clarke, Mick Johnson and myself.

Even more additions were made to the right side of Blue Scar during its short summer season. 13 new routes here from F6a+ to F7b compliment the pre-existing 8 sport routes (several of which were re-geared) which are also within that grade range making this a venue well worth a visit when the bird restrictions are lifted again next year. Nigel Baker, Paul Clarke, Mick Johnson and I shared the spoils at this location.

Matt Troilett and Neil McCallum gave several of the harder routes at Yew Cogar Scar a bolt fund makeover replacing many bolts and several belays. I did the same to Beyond the Fringe and added a new short warm up to the extreme left-hand side.

Kilnsey got a new F7a from Neil McCallum up the arete right of Mystique and Matt extended Quiet Flight and gave Perverted Geranium a good clean out.

Some new bolts at the start of Cave Route RH sparked a bit of a controversy from Gordale devotees and some retrobolting at Dib Scar caused disquiet in some quarters. An open debate was held in Skipton in early October when everyone had a chance to make their concerns known. There were too many present to draw any absolute conclusions but there was, I believe, a general concensus that the makeovers of Trow Gill, Robin Proctor's scar and the Giggleswick Scars were generally accepted as a positive step but that several of those present had severe reservations about similar changes to any of the remaining crags. The Cave Route incident was left unresolved with some present threatening to remove the new bolts. Watch this space!

The new definitive limestone guide will be ready in the Spring so this will probably be my last update on here for a while until I get that project finished.

Dave Musgrove October 2004

Lone Dyno

Hen Arete

Yorkshire New Routes Update - Summer 2004

It's summer and time for another update.

Big numbers are reported recently from two rather obscure venues. On the Grit Steve Dunning has climbed a V14 micro route on the egg boulder at Shaphaw. Rhythm is described by Steve as the hardest piece of gritstone climbing he's ever done. You're welcome to try it - or just go and look, and you'll find it just to the right of Aye-n-ard Crack. See page 587 in the gritstone guide.

A similarly difficult, or perhaps even harder sequence, has been reported at the G Spot, Giggleswick Scar South where John Gaskins finally completed a long standing project which he claims is worth F9a+, thereby becoming the hardest climb on Yorkshire Limestone. It's only short but climbs out of the left side of the cave entrance. I've seen the line and the bolts - but not the holds! What John used I've no idea.

Many more amenable routes and problems have been reported from more traditional venues and all are now included in the updated databases

In the Washburn Valley David Sutcliffe has finally claimed the two arêtes at the far right of Brandrith one at a very respectable V10 and the furthest right at V7 though this may have been climbed before? Nearby, at Thruscross, Matt Troilett and Nez Herbert climbed Barnes Wallace (E5 6b) on the Beanstalk Buttress.

Caley has a new bold micro-route above a big drop, Magnetic Fields (E7 6c) courtesy of Jordan Buys. Ben Moon also slipped in to claim Ranieri's Reach, the long standing project right of Tippling Crack (Font 8a).

Malcolm Townsley added several more short routes to Blake Dean Pinnacle and several new problems to Deer Gallows and Tony Marr added four to Brimham in the Hattery area. Karl Bromelow and Mandy Robertson have also been busy here with new ascents on the rocks between Black Chipper and Dancing Bear; Probably Wallaby Poo being their best offering.

On the Limestone the popularity of Robin Proctor's Scar and Trow Gill now seems
well established with queues forming for routes at the former on several weekends this spring. 3 more routes or variants were added at Robin Proctor's but the potential for much more now seems unlikely. Several more sport routes at Trow have been created since my last update and virtually all the old routes retro-bolted. New this year are Dark Arts (F7b), Leap of Faith (F7c), Distant Lands (F7a) and Tex's Midnight Runners (F6a+). Retros include Alick (F6b), Clink (F7a), Boogie Wonderland (F6a) and Black & Ash Tree Grooves and Still Waters all around F6b+. John Hollinsworth also got in on the action with his first ever new route, Grimsby Trowler Man (F6b) on the left wing, just right of Mesolithic Geordie Man. A new topo to the central right wall is now available and should sort out any remaining confusion.

At Giggleswick South Mutant Sunshine and Titter Ye Not are now fully bolted at F6b and F6c respectively whilst at Giggs North Nigel Baker added The Haunting F6b+ to the main wall.

Troller's Gill has also seen some new routes and further bolting work with Nigel Baker's Heir of the Dog F7a+ becoming the first sport route on the right wing and Shaggy Dog Story (F6c+) and The Jack Flap (F6b) being added to the left. Angel Delight has now been tidied up and changed nationality from E5 6b to F7a+. Paul Clarke added The Deep (F7b+) to Hull Pot.

At Dib Scar Matt Troilett has finally succeeded on the long standing project to climb the old aid route of Lockiflower at F7c+ and several other of the existing routes have been re-bolted. I was reluctantly persuaded that my old E4 Revived Forty-Five was unjustifiable with just one crucial peg runner behind a dodgy flake and it has now been sanitised by a line of bolts. It should now become popular as an easyish F6c. At Kilnsey similar treatment has been given to the previously peg protected and neglected E3 Mystique which is now an excellent in instantly popular F6b. A useful addition to the overstretched warm-up facilities at this crag. WYSIWYG, Urgent Action and Heresy have also been recently re-equipped.

On the more established popular trad-limestone crags guidebook work by Karl Lunt and Friends continues to throw up ever more gems, Particularly at Twisleton; not all of which are on the database now (it's all a bit too complicated).

Glyn Edwards and Colin Binks have developed the long over-looked Langscar, above Malham and have now moved on to the right hand side of Moughton Nab. Kevin Barrett is feverishly working away to clean up a new sector near High Stoney Bank which has so far produced about a dozen trad lines in the S to HVS range. These are also not yet on the database but should eventually provide a worthwhile injection of interest to this pleasant but currently unfashionable area.

Dave Musgrove, June 2004

Dick Tong on Mutant Sunshine F6b at Giggleswick South
Photo Dave Musgrove

Paul Bennet climbing Mail Trail F6a+ One of the short but intense new sport routes at Langscar. 
Photo: Paul Willison

Nigel Baker, First Ascent of Heir of the Dog F7a+ at Troller's Gill
Photo Dave Musgrove

Yorkshire New Routes Update - Spring 2004

Well, Spring is almost here and those of you restless to get back on real routes on real rock will have a real treat to go at if bolted Limestone in the F5 to F7a is what you really like.

At the time of my last report in the Autumn, Norber Scar was a Yorkshire Limestone backwater with a handful of unfashionable trad routes and a serious reputation for loose rock and poor protection. I asked Alan Steele to check it over for the new guide not really expecting any big changes but Alan saw great potential where previous pioneers, including myself, had generally been deterred after one visit. The difference was that Alan had a drill and was prepared to spend a lot of money on bolts and high quality belay chains. He also had a large crow-bar, and a trusty companion Frank Walker, who between them were prepared to put in the time and effort, throughout the winter, cleaning and removing huge amounts of loose rock. The result is a superb low-grade Sport Crag with around 25 bolted lines mainly in the F6a to F6c category and all around 25metres in length.. The crag faces south, takes no drainage and dries very quickly. It is exposed to the wind but on calm days it is a superb winter venue. In summer the lack of shade could be the main problem.

In previous guides the crag has been known as Norber Scar but its proper name as shown on larger scale maps is Robin Procter's Scar. As it has now been transformed in character we have decided to re-christen it in the guidebooks.

I have include a topo sketch below and Alan has a photo topo on his Inglesport web-site www.inglesport.com . All the new route descriptions are now included in our database but to whet your appetite the following selection should give you a very good first visit. Just Cruising, Living the Dream (F5) is a great warm-up, followed by Tombstone Blues (F6a). Then, arguably the best route on the crag and worth 3 stars anywhere, Wheels on Fire (F6a+); Inertia Syndrome Re-visited (F6a+); The Shield (F6c); Marshall Plan (F6c), and, if you are up to it, Forever Young (F7a+) the hardest route on the crag which gives superb but very fingery, technical wall climbing. All the rest of the routes are good and don't miss-out on a historical trip up Central Gully (S), probably the first route ever recorded on Yorkshire Limestone (1948) and still one of the best at that grade in the Dales.

Elsewhere on the Limestone a few more fillers-in were added to Trow Gill before that crag closed down for the winter, Popmaster(F6b+), Trowmatic (F6a+), and The Megalithic Geordie Man (F6a) from Mick Johnson.Get Smarter (F6c+) and Easy Ride-err! (F6b) from Nigel Baker, and I added a direct start to, and fully re-equipped, Surface Tension to provide Hyper-Tension (F6c+).

The database has been updated and a couple of new topos are shown below to get you started. Don't rush here too soon, however, this crag is not usually in good condition until after Easter.

Hull Pot is another esoteric venue that has had something of a face lift last year, some of the older routes were re-equipped and four new ones added. Boff the Dog (F7a+) is a steep technical arete climbed by Paul Wheeler; I led Hull and High Water (F6c) and Viagra (HVS 5a), whilst Nigel Baker added a rising traverse The Pit and the Pendulum (F6b+).

Glyn Edwards, Peter Kaye and John Middleton have added ten routes to Moughton Nab, mainly trad in the VS/HVS category but 3 with bolt protection in the F6b range. The team then recruited Colin Binks and moved on to Langscar, a previously ignored and undeveloped edge above Malham and climbed 20 routes in the VS to E2 range with 4 semi-sport routes F6a+ to F6c. The routes are fairly short but appear to be on sound rock and are very easily accessible from the road that leads up the left side of the Cove from Malham village.

Finally on the limestone Troller's Gill now sports an easier bolt route The Jack Flap (F6a+) which climbs right-hand, outer edge of the Big Crack from a short traverse in above the first roof. A direct start The Peanut Brittle Base (F6c) was excavated and added by Nigel Baker.

On the gritstone there is much less to report. I'm sure there has been lots of bouldering development but very few bother to report new problems to me. However, at Mythem Steep Quarry a couple of longer routes were added by David Boeckstyns & David Holden and Jack Geldard climbed Jack's Dimension (E? 7a) a 6 metre sidewall on the Yorkshire Wobble block at Rolling Gate, described by Jack as a highball problem with a bad landing!

Tony Marr and Mike Tooke climbed yet another route at Slipstones, Rogues Gallery (VS 5a), whilst at nearby Birk Gill Alasdair Kennedy and Jamie Moss climbed three short routes the best of which is probably Little Midget, (E1 5a). Finally, Martin Birdsall and Stuart Boutcher climbed 'Twenty-Five' (MVS 4c) up the corner and arete left of Agnostic's Arete at Penyghent

Finally. On the grit at Brimham Karl Bromelow and Mandy Robertson climbed Probably Wallaby Poo (HVS 5b) on a block below the Dancing Bear (see photo, below).

Dave Musgrove 25.2.04

Probably Wallaby Poo (HVS 5b Brimham)

Below Angela Soper Climbing Wheels on Fire F6a+ ***
 Photographs by Ian Haywood